Thompson/Center Arms - Shooting Black Powder Guns

[adavis]

I found this small pamphlet online and was curious to see if it offered any valuable insights or suggestions.

The following posts contain an updated summary of this old pamphlet, enhanced with images and further details.

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We recommend visiting the Thompson Center website to learn more about their current offerings or hunt down this vintage pamphlet for additional info: https://tcarms.com/

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[adavis]

"I sat astride my horse and looked down into the valley we had come upon. As far as the eye could see, there were buffalo - thousands upon thousands of buffalo. The entire valley moved as one living mass. The size of this herd was beyond description." -Upon their return in 1804, the Lewis and Clark Expedition brought back accounts of plentiful wildlife, which fueled both adventure and economic expansion of the firearm industry.

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[adavis]

Black powder is the sole propellant considered safe for use in muzzle-loading firearms due to its relatively low breech pressure. Even modern steel-barreled replica firearms are not built to handle the high pressures of smokeless powders.

Composite propellants, like black powder, are made from a blend of fuel and oxidizer. Here, charcoal and sulfur serve as the fuel, burning intensely in the presence of oxygen to produce gases that propel projectiles. Charcoal combustion yields carbon dioxide, while sulfur combustion produces sulfur dioxide. To ensure these gases are contained, potassium nitrate (saltpeter) is added, which is rich in oxygen and releases it when heated, enhancing the explosive effect.

Until the mid-19th century, this mixture of charcoal, sulfur, and saltpeter was the only known recipe for gunpowder, before the advent of nitroglycerin and nitrocellulose. The earliest form, termed "Meal" or "Serpentine" powder, had the texture of fine coal dust. This mechanically mixed powder, however, had drawbacks because its components could separate due to differing densities, leading to inconsistent performance.

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Early Serpentine powder was eventually supplanted by "Corned" or "Granulated" powder, marking a significant advancement in black powder production. This new method involved mixing charcoal, saltpeter, and sulfur in the correct ratios, then adding water to create a paste. This paste was compressed into a solid block, which was dried and then broken down into granules. This granulation process allowed for standardization and control over grain size through a "go" and "no go" system, where the powder was sieved through progressively finer screens to sort and grade it by coarseness.

The size of the granules is crucial in determining the black powder's application. The coarsest grains burn the slowest, making them ideal for large caliber rifles and shotguns. Conversely, pistols and smaller caliber rifles benefit from finer, faster-burning powders. The finest and quickest burning powder is used as priming powder in flintlock mechanisms.

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Black Powder Chart

FG:

• Known as single "F"

• This very coarse black powder is seldom used by muzzle loading enthusiasts today. It's mainly suited for the large bore shotguns of the past, like 10, 8, and 4 gauge.

FFG:

• Referred to as double "F" (FF)

• A popular choice for larger caliber rifles (45 to 58) and for 12-, 16-, and 20-gauge muzzle loading shotguns. Although not ideal for pistols, it can be used in very large caliber single-shot pistols.

FFFG:

• Known as triple "F" (FFF)

• This is the most commonly stocked black powder due to its versatility. It's used in all percussion revolvers, most single-shot pistols, and in smaller caliber rifles (under 45). In emergencies, it can also serve as flintlock priming powder.

FFFFG:

• The finest of all commercially available black powders, known as Four "F."

• Primarily used for priming flintlocks, its specialized use can make it challenging to find.

[adavis]

The topic of chamber pressure is profoundly complex. Even ballistic engineers, who have dedicated their careers to testing in laboratories, tend to be cautious in making definitive statements about it. They understand that a small amount of knowledge can be deceptive, and interpretation is key. These experts know that their test results represent just one controlled experiment, and under different conditions, the outcomes might vary significantly.

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Propellant powders are inherently designed to burn most efficiently within specific pressure ranges, which can differ widely based on whether the powder is meant for rifles, pistols, or shotguns. When using a particular rifle-load combination, ballisticians generally consider they are at or near the optimum pressure range when they achieve consistent, respectable velocities while maintaining safe chamber pressures. If increasing the powder charge leads to erratic performance, or if pressure rises while velocity decreases or stagnates, it suggests the load is being pushed past its efficiency point. This doesn't automatically mean the load is unsafe; rather, it indicates inefficiencies due to factors like firearm design, bore and groove dimensions, and twist rate, all of which influence pressure.

Thompson/Center testing indicated that the black powder used operated most efficiently in or near the 7,000 PSI range. In other words, charges of approximately 70 grains of powder recorded the highest velocity in relation to the lowest pressure. Heavier loadings showed marked increases in pressure for only minor gains in velocity. Equally, the loads tested in this optimum range were far more consistent (less shot to shot variation) than the heavier charges.

[adavis]

Given that black powder ignites readily and burns almost instantly, one might think that ignition wouldn't pose issues for muzzleloading enthusiasts. However, during the era when black powder was prevalent, terms like misfire, hangfire, flash in the pan, and going off half-cocked were coined. Clearly, there were moments when our ancestors, like Granddad, let loose with language typically reserved for stubborn mules, venting their frustration at their muskets. Imagine his frustration if he was aiming at a plump White-tailed Deer; his disappointment (and the quality of his cursing) would be understandable, though the blame would still lie with him.

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Under ideal conditions, black powder ignites easily. Yet, if the nipple port is clogged with residue, if the charge is contaminated with oil, or if the firearm is in disrepair, ignition can fail. Back then, worn parts were somewhat forgivable since heat treatment hadn’t advanced to today's standards; the thin case-hardened surfaces of lock and trigger mechanisms could wear down, leading to malfunctions.

Thompson/Center cap lock rifles and pistols use a No. 11 percussion cap which must fit correctly. For the Hawken Flint Model, proper size flints are available from Thompson/Center Arms. It's crucial to ensure that the nipple port or flash hole remains clean and free of fouling. A piece of fine copper wire is a useful tool for cleaning these areas.

[adavis]

Muzzleloading projectiles are made from pure lead, which you can source from a local scrap yard or plumbing supplier. Avoid using lead alloys like Linotype, as they include antimony and are too hard for muzzleloading applications. Although most scrap lead has traces of other metals, if it's soft enough to be cut with just the pressure of your fingernail, it's generally suitable for use.

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Round ball mold insights:

• .350” Round ball, T/C patch material #7036. This diameter ball is recommended for use with the .36 caliber Seneca Rifle. (65 grains)

• .440” Round ball, T/C patch material #703. Recommended for use with .45 caliber Seneca and Hawken Rifles and .45 Patriot Pistol (127 grains)

• .490” Round ball, T/C patch material #703. Recommended for the .50 caliber Hawken Rifle (175 grains)

• .530” Round ball, T/C patch material #7034. Recommended for the .54 caliber Renegade (230 grains)

Maxi-ball mold insights:

• .36 Caliber Maxi-ball for Turkey, small game and ease of loading, this new bullet was designed specifically for the .36 caliber Seneca Rifle, T/C MAXI-LUB must be used (128 grains)

• .45 Caliber Maxi-ball for deer and other large game, designed specifically for the .45 caliber Hawken and Seneca Rifle, T/C MAXI-LUB must be used (220 grains)

• .50 Caliber Maxi-ball for big game bullet, .50 caliber Hawken Rifle, T/C MAXI-LUB must be used (370 grains)

• .54 Caliber Maxi-ball for big game, .54 caliber Renegade Rifle, T/C MAXI-LUB must be used (400 grains)

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Patching the Round Ball

Newcomers to muzzleloading often struggle with determining the ideal patch and ball combination for their rifle. Typically, they opt for a loosely fitting setup which, while easy to load, compromises on accuracy. For optimal performance, the round ball needs to be snugly wrapped in a tight patch.

The accuracy in muzzleloading hinges on a paradox: a ball smaller than the bore gets spun by rifling it never actually contacts. Here, the patch plays a critical role by firmly gripping both the ball and the rifling, transferring the spin to the projectile. If the patch is too loose, the ball won't spin, resulting in an unstable flight path. Inconsistencies in patch thickness, loading method, or lubricant amount can lead to erratic shot performance.

The patch also serves to create an effective gas seal, keeping the rapidly expanding gases from the powder charge behind the projectile. This ensures consistent powder burn from shot to shot. An ill-fitting or weak patch can tear or give way under pressure, leading to a significant drop in velocity and a loss of shot-to-shot consistency and accuracy. Lubrication on the patch not only facilitates loading but also protects the patch from being incinerated by the hot gases.

To function correctly, the patch material must be exceptionally durable and must be under significant compression, not just at the points where it touches the rifling lands but also in the grooves. If the material isn't compressed into the grooves, the expanding gas can escape around the projectile, severely impacting performance.

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Enhanced Image of: Patch and Ball Fit from reference: Shooting Black Powder Guns Thompson / Center Arms

[adavis]

For target shooting, an extremely tight-fitting patch and ball combination is sometimes used. A bullet starter, contoured to match the ball's shape, along with a hammer, is often used to initiate the loading process. This setup, however, is too cumbersome for field conditions, leading most hunting rifles to use a looser fit.

You can purchase a special T/C Patching Material designed for all Thomson/Center muzzle-loading firearms. This material's thickness is tailored to match the round ball diameter and the barrel dimensions of each specific caliber. T/C Patch Material strikes a balance between ease of loading and effective bore sealing. When paired with the correct size of round ball, it enables field loading while maintaining high accuracy.

When shooting with a muzzle-loading firearm, it's beneficial to inspect some of the patches after firing. These can generally be found on the ground about 10 yards ahead of the muzzle.

The following illustrations will assist in evaluating whether your patch or lubricant is performing as intended.

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[adavis]

Lubricant is essential for easing the loading process and preventing the patch from burning. In the past, animal fats were the go-to lubricants for patches. According to old records, bear grease was especially favored. Also, the "spit patch," where saliva is used for lubrication, was common. However, the spit patch has drawbacks; it can cause rust if left in the barrel for an extended period and dries out, losing its lubricating properties.

Today, numerous substances can serve as patch lubricants. Melted lamb or pork fat are good options, although they can spoil over time. Avoid using salty fats like bacon grease, as salt can damage the barrel. Crisco and Vaseline are also excellent choices. Cooking oil, light machine oil, or melted commercial bullet lubricants, pump grease, etc., can be used too. The best approach is to experiment with different lubricants and stick with the one that works best.

There are various methods to apply lubricant to a patch. For light oils, you can just dip the patch into the oil and then squeeze out the excess between your fingers. For thicker lubricants like Crisco or Vaseline, you can work them into the patch material by hand. The patch should be fully saturated but not dripping. When using substances that need to be melted (like bullet lubricant or animal fat), you dip the patches into the melted lubricant, similar to how you'd fry potatoes. Use a screened container to hold the patches, dip them in the melted lubricant, let them drain, and then place them on absorbent paper to dry.