Gunsmithing is the art, science, and profession of designing, building, repairing, and modifying firearms. It requires a deep understanding of metallurgy, mechanics, and ballistics, as well as proficiency in using specialized tools like lathes, milling machines, and precision measuring equipment. Gunsmiths often customize firearms for improved accuracy, aesthetics, or functionality, ensuring each piece meets legal standards and the client's specific needs.
This topic draws significant inspiration and content from "The Gun Digest Book of RIFLESMITHING - The Art and Science of Rifle Gunsmithing" by Jack Mitchell. We strongly suggest obtaining a copy of this book for further insights and detailed information.
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Essential Riflesmithing Tools:
First Purchase: Invest in safety glasses and use them in the workshop.
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Safety Equipment:
Eye protection - Essential for safety in the workshop.
Dust mask - Protects against inhalation of fine particles.
Shop apron - go a long way in keeping clothes clean and free of filing.
Basic Tools:
Hacksaw - Crucial for cutting materials.
File - For smoothing and shaping metal.
Hammer - General use in assembly and disassembly.
Drill - For making holes in metal or wood.
Screwdriver - Various sizes for gun assembly.
Vise - Holds work securely for precision tasks.
Hacksaw Usage and Selection:
Reuse: Once dull, cut blades into strips for wood scrapers or flat springs.
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Blade Selection:
14 TPI: Ideal for large pieces and mild steel.
18 TPI: Best for tool, high-speed, and carbon steel.
24 TPI: Suited for copper, brass, iron pipe, angle iron, and conduit.
32 TPI: Perfect for thin tubing and sheet metal.
Blade Tooth Set:
Standard Set: Alternating right and left teeth.
Wave Set: Teeth cut in pairs for different cutting characteristics.
Blade Maintenance:
Longevity: Blades last longer with proper use.
Speed & Pressure: Blade life correlates with cutting speed and applied pressure.
Optimal Cutting Speed: about 40 strokes per minute.
Avoid:
Too fast cutting which can dull the blade by drawing temper from steel.
Excessive pressure which can break the blade.
Insufficient pressure leading to glazing from teeth slipping over the work.
Versatility: If budgeting allows for only one blade, an 18-tooth blade is the most versatile choice for starting out.
By following these guidelines, riflesmiths can work efficiently while extending the life of their tools and ensuring personal safety.
Last edited by adavis on Mon Jan 20, 2025 4:00 am, edited 2 times in total.
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File Divisions
There are three primary types of file cuts:
Single Cut: Ideal for draw filing, saw filing, and finishing surfaces on materials like steel, brass, and bronze.
Double Cut: Best for roughing out metal, offering rapid material removal but leaving a coarse finish.
Rasp Cut: Designed specifically for softer materials like wood, bone, or plastics.
Specialty Files include checkering, vixen, lead float, Swiss, American Swiss, blunt, safe edge, tapered, and increment cut files, which feature teeth of varying heights for specialized tasks.
Cutting Edge Classifications: Files are classified based on their tooth pattern: bastard, second cut, smooth, or dead smooth.
Cut Grades: There are ten grades, ranging from 00 through 8, where lower numbers indicate finer cuts.
File Length and Cut: Generally, the shorter the file, the finer the cut.
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File Maintenance Tips:
Chalk Application: Rubbing files with blackboard chalk before use can reduce clogging.
File Brushing: Keep a file brush handy to clear filings, preventing scratches on subsequent passes.
Handle Safety: Always use a file handle on the tang to prevent injuries.
File Categories
Files are sorted by the coarseness of their cut, impacting both the speed of material removal and the surface finish:
Bastard Cut: A medium cut, coarser than second cut but finer than rough. Versatile for general tasks needing quick material removal with a decent finish.
Rough Cut: The coarsest option, used when speed of material removal is the priority over finish quality.
Second Cut: Slightly finer than bastard, used for intermediate filing where a bit more refinement is needed.
Smooth Cut: For detailed work where a smoother finish is required.
Dead Smooth Cut: The finest cut, used for the highest precision and smoothest finishes in delicate work.
Always check the hardness of the metal before filing it.
Polishing with Abrasive Paper: An effective technique for quickly polishing metal is to wrap abrasive paper around a file.
File Storage: To avoid damaging the cutting teeth, ensure that files do not knock against each other when stored.
Draw Filing Technique: When filing, keep the file flat against the workpiece and lift it entirely on the return stroke.
File Shapes
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Last edited by adavis on Fri Jan 17, 2025 5:28 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Precision Screwdriver Benefits:
Precision and Accuracy: Precision screwdrivers are essential for handling tiny internal screws, particularly those on rifle sights, ensuring no damage to the screw heads or surrounding components.
Prevention of Damage: Using the correct size and type of screwdriver prevents burring or stripping of screw heads, which is crucial for maintaining the integrity and functionality of firearms.
Durability: Avoid screwdrivers with rounded edges to help maintain the tool's effectiveness over time, reducing the need for frequent replacements or repairs.
Ease of Use: Long-shank screwdrivers make it easier to reach and manipulate stock bolts in deeply set or hard-to-reach areas of the rifle.
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Recommended Screwdrivers for New Gunsmiths:
Precision Screwdrivers (Set):
Size Range: Look for sets that include sizes from .04 to .14 inches in width to cover the variety of small screws found in firearms, especially in sights.
Quality: Invest in sets with hardened tips to prevent wear and maintain precision. Good quality sets often include magnetic tips for easier screw handling.
General Use Screwdrivers:
Size and Shape: Choose screwdrivers with flat, non-rounded edges to ensure a firm grip on screws without damaging them.
Material: Opt for those made from high-carbon steel for durability and resistance to wear.
Long-Shank Screwdrivers:
Length: Essential for accessing screws deep within the gun's stock or frame. Look to add at least one screwdriver with at least a 6-8 inch shank.
Torque: Ensure they are sturdy enough to handle the torque needed for stock bolt removal without bending or breaking.
Best Practices:
Tool Selection: Always match the screwdriver to the screw size to avoid damage. A slightly oversized screwdriver can work if it fits well, but undersized tools will always lead to problems.
Maintenance: Regularly check for wear or damage on screwdrivers, ensuring they are kept sharp and clean to prevent slippage or burring.
Storage: Store screwdrivers separately to prevent edge damage from contact with other tools.
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Essential Hammers for the Riflesmith
A well-equipped gunsmith should have a selection of hammers tailored to different tasks. Each type of hammer serves a unique purpose in maintenance, repair, and customization of rifles, ensuring that each job is done without compromising the integrity of the firearm's components.
Medium-Weight Ball Peen Hammer:
Used for delicate tasks like drifting out small parts such as pins or screws where precision is crucial.
Brass Hammers:
Essential for installing and removing rifle sights without damaging the metal surfaces due to brass's softer nature compared to steel.
Plastic and Rawhide-Head Hammers:
Purpose: These hammers are used when you need to strike metal without leaving marks. Rawhide is particularly favored for its ability to absorb shock.
Large, Round Wooden Mallets:
Used specifically for shaping or working on wooden rifle stocks, particularly in conjunction with chisels.
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Key Considerations:
Material Selection: The choice of hammer head material (brass, rawhide, plastic, wood) is critical based on the task at hand to ensure no damage occurs to the rifle's components.
Weight and Size: The weight of the hammer affects precision and force. Lighter hammers offer more control for small parts, while heavier ones provide the force needed for shaping or adjusting components like sights or stocks.
Handle Ergonomics: Comfort in handling is crucial for extended work periods. Look for handles made of materials like hickory or modern composites that provide a good grip and reduce fatigue.
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Overview Summary of Bench Vise in Gunsmithing for Rifles:
A well-equipped bench vise with appropriate jaws is indispensable in gunsmithing, offering both the stability needed for precision work and the protection required to maintain the integrity of rifle components.
Essential Tool for Rifle Smithing:
A bench vise is fundamental to rifle smithing, aiding in tasks ranging from assembly to repair and customization.
Specifications for Gunsmithing:
Size and Mounting: A four-inch vise that bolts to the edge of the workbench is recommended. This size provides adequate grip and stability for most rifle parts while ensuring the vise is securely mounted to prevent movement during work.
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Jaws for Precision and Protection:
Soft Jaws: These are crucial as they provide a non-slip grip on the workpiece. They help in preventing the work from moving due to the gripping force, which is essential when precision is needed in gunsmithing.
Bronze Vise Jaws: These are particularly useful in gunsmithing due to their dual functionality:
Marring Prevention: Bronze jaws do not mark or scratch the metal surfaces of rifle components, which is critical when working with expensive or delicate parts.
Heat Management: They also serve as a heat-sink, which is beneficial when using torches for operations like soldering or heat treatment, ensuring that heat is dissipated away from sensitive areas.
Application in Gunsmithing:
The vise with these jaw options allows for secure holding of rifle parts during drilling, filing, sanding, or any other modification or repair. It ensures that parts remain stationary, which is vital for accuracy in gunsmithing work.
The choice of jaws can significantly affect the outcome; soft jaws for general clamping where protection of the part's finish is necessary, and bronze for tasks involving heat to protect the part from thermal damage.
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Drills are among the most essential tools in rifle-smithing. While a hand drill can suffice, a portable power drill offers better performance, but for precision tasks, a drill press is ideal.
A wide variety of drill bits is essential to match the numerous hole sizes used across different rifle manufacturers. Ideally, you should possess two full sets of "number" drills (one in high-carbon steel and another in high-speed steel), a complete set of "letter" drills, and a set of "fractional" drills.
High-speed steel drills have the advantage over high-carbon steel drills as they can be used continuously without losing their temper. However, since drills can become dull or even break when cutting through hardened steel, it's crucial for a riflesmith to know how to sharpen them. The simplest method involves using a special jig that holds the drill for resharpening on a bench grinder. This jig ensures a perfect 59-degree angle to the drill's axis and a 12-degree clearance angle on the cutting edge.
For specific rifle work, three additional drills are necessary:
A one-half inch diameter drill with an eighteen-inch shank for drilling butt stocks for stock screws.
A one-quarter inch by fourteen-inch shank drill for the same purpose.
A one-quarter inch by twenty-inch shank drill for removing stuck cases.
